WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: We wanted a spoon-coasting broth studded with shreds of sweet-smoky meat, without requiring the hambone traditionally used to infuse the soup with flavor. Substituting ham hock made the soup greasy and was skimpy on the meat. Ham steak, however, was plenty meaty and lent a fuller pork flavor. Without the…
A bouquet garni is a classical combination of aromatic herbs and vegetables used to flavor liquids, because the herbs and vegetables are bundled with string, they can be removed easily from the liquid once they've given their flavor to it.
A barigoule is a kind of stew of artichokes. A lot of restaurants serve it, but like tapenade, there's no standard proportion or classical recipe. We braise the artichoke hearts in olive oil, wine, chicken and/or vegetable stock, with carrots, onions, and garlic, thyme, and parsley. It's a wonderful marriage of flavors absorbed by the…
We use glazes often in the cheese course, always sparingly, because they are so intense. When making a vinegar or wine glaze, reduce it slowly, almost as if you were letting it evaporate. If you boil it too hard, the acid will remain and make the blaze too sharp. Reducing it slowly and gently results…
The garlic tuiles are best the day they are baked. They have an addictive flavor and can be eaten alone or as a garnish for salads. This recipe makes quite a lot (enough for 2 to 3 dozen), but it's difficult to mix less batter, and the excess can always be frozen for another time.
The sorbet can be made in a variety of flavors and colors by changing the type of tomato you use. Early Girl, Green Zebra, and Mandarin are just a few that work beautifully. It has a very clean flavor, so it also works perfectly as a plated canape or all by itself as an…